So Morocco was chill. Plain and simple. Imagine having no worries (except the small possibility of safety which was immediately disregarded) , no plans, no frets, and nothing aggravating- except people constantly offering you hash. But in a world where everyone nudges you, there are worse things to be offered than hash, and being offered has always bothered me less than being begged.
Tanger really is far from anything special. In fact, it sucks. When we walked in from the port, a cab driver with 2 people in the back seat pulled over to us. Thinking he needed something we approached him, only to learn that he in fact was offering to take us as well... even to as far as Fes (8 hours away). He even said he would take 2 of us to Tanger and come back for the third if we so chose. We needed a 15 euro bus followed by a 35 euro ferry... to get to madrid from casa was only a 25 euro flight plus baggage... logical? Not at all, but it was still necessary to head south. As crummy as Tanger was (imagine an industrial port city with crime and scummy areas), Chaouen and Fes more than made up for it. As Ari describes Chaouen, it is ´literally the chillest place everrr;´ Ari even created a hostelworld account for our hotel so that they could get more business. The food in all of Morocco is truly special- it is hearty but not overly cramming, inexpensive but not shit, and unique from the rest of the world. Although everywhere impersonates Moroccan food, nowhere can truly duplicate it. The people are friendly, but we always had the sense that in Chaouen, they were after something else as well. Whether they were asking for money after our interaction, offering something, or insisting upon our entrance into their shop, Chaouen had an urgent sense of demand from all. Fes, despite being larger (and I would have thought less friendly), was more open and less pushy. Other than Abdul the asshole (he found us a hotel then demanded a lot of money and took money from the hotel man... he also would whisper to all - and I mean ALL - girls on the street that they were beautiful and he wanted to take them to dinner [which surprisingly got 2 separate girls to wait like 5 minutes for him to come back for them]), people were great. Most mistook us for Berbers because we bargained so much, and only a few mistook me for being Muslim because of my lack of shaving (and my styling my facial hair in the islam0-beard fashion).
The thing that truly impressed me most about Morocco was the children. It is incredible how a whole group of people - and I mean everyone no matter what age - can be taught to offer any service for any form of money. Whether it was 2 10 year old shepherds climbing down a mountain right after us who offered to show us the best path down, or a 4 year old in the street, or any older man with hash, or any younger man who could find us the best hotel, everyone was insistant upon this. This was just side babble, however, because this didn´t impress me at all and forced us to just say ´lah´or ´no´ immediately to everyone. The children, on the other hand, will speak moroccan arabic to each other, french to older people, and then start speaking english to us. They would then ask us in italian if we were italian, and then spanish in spanish. Almost every child was fluent in arabic (of course), mostly fluent in english, fluent in french, and in the north (where we were), spanish too. And to think of the education problems American children have with just english.
In Chaouen we also learned of the zaa-zaa drink, an avocado-milk mix with fruits and yogurt in, and through our breakfasts daily at this place, met our Canadian friend Francois who accompanied us throughout Fes. After our departure with him, we sadly also said good-bye to Sam, Ari´s travel buddy for the past 4 months. Now, it is just Ari and myself in the Canary Islands, hoping to indulge in tons of fruit, sun, and watersports.
My Puzzle and The Awards
15 years ago